Nikon Full Frame Cameras: which landscape lens to buy? Help!


New time-lapser
Hi everybody,
I am new here and new in the timelapse amazing word as well. I am Nikon user, D5200 and currently I am thinking to get a full frame camera, Nikon D610. Also I want to get a lens that I can use for landscape photo. Sadly I can't afford the nikkor 14-24 f2.8 because its cost so I want to found a good alternative, What is the best affordable alternative to this lens? Can be the Tokina AT-X 16-28mm f2.8 Pro FX, or other one you know?

Thanks so much for your help, I really appreciate it

Cristian Dunivicher


New time-lapser
Hi Christian,

Certainly the Tokina is a very good alternative, I've seen a friend using it on a D800 and the quality is very good!
Other options are:

Nikon 16-35 f/4
Pros: Great quality, possibility to use circular filters and it's cheaper than the Nikon 14-24
Cons: Not f/2.8 (you'll hardly use that value anyway, except for stars... but I own a D610 and noticed that I can easily shoot at f/4 and get a huge amount of stars and better sharpness), more expansive than the Tokina

Nikon 18-35 f/3.5-4.5
Pros: Good quality, possibility to use circular filters and much cheaper than the Nikon 14-24; also a bit cheaper than the Tokina
Cons: It does not have the quality of a fixed f/4

Samyang 14mm f/2.8 (or Rokinon same lens different name)
Pros: Cheapest lens of the lot, very sharp also at maximum aperture, it's a prime lens, so great quality
Cons: It's a prime lens, so you have no "focal flexibility", and you can't mount circular filters.

I personally own the Samyang and I love it. I've used it first on my old D5100 and now I'm using it on the D610 and I'm very satisfied. If in the future I will decide to change it I'll probably go for the Nikon 16-35 f/4, which in my opinion is the perfect compromise.

Aaron Priest

Active time-lapser
Great advice! There are some good primes as well, such as the new Nikon 20mm f/1.8 and Sigma ART 35mm f/1.4. Both are good at day or night photography (particularly when stopped down a little for less coma on the stars). Also several Rokinon/Samyang/Bower primes, 14mm f/2.8, 24mm f/1.4, etc.


New time-lapser
Thank you si much for your comments. I have to decide which lens should I get. It's not so easy, I just have the money for one lens. Should I prefer a zoom wide angle like the tokina 16-28, should I prefer a f2.8 over a f4 or a range. The samyang looks really well but I am not shure because it's not a zoom lens, but I can put filters. Well, seems to be a not easy decision. Thank guys I really appreciate it. I don't wanna make it wrong...

Frank Kinnaman

Donating Member
I am in the same spot as you Christian, I need a full frame wide angle lens, my current wide angle is nice but is for a crop body. I think your decision has to go for the wider aperture if you have any ambition at all to do serious astrophotography? If you know that you just want to do mostly daytime then you could save some money and/or have a zoom wide angle?
I will probably get that samyang/rokinon 14mm 2.8 for $ reasons but did you see their 24mm lens with a really wider aperture? Wow that looks pretty great.


New time-lapser
Thank you so much for your comment Frank. To be honest I don't know very much about astrphotography. I like it very very much and I hope to learn a lot here, and also I want to make some trial shot with this new lens. That is the reason why I prefer to purchase a f2.8. Now, my doubt is if I should get a zoom wide angle or a fixed wide angle. So, I am between the samyang and the tokina

Aaron Priest

Active time-lapser
The fixed 14mm lets you use longer exposures of the stars without streaking for sharp Milky Way shots. Otherwise the zoom is more convenient for everything else during the day. A good rule of thumb is to divide 500 by your focal length for maximum number of seconds you can use for a shutter speed and still get acceptably sharp stars. I subtract another 5 to 10 seconds from that figure sometimes on these really high resolution cameras like the D800/D810 since we tend to zoom in and pixel peep more on them. If you are on a crop factor camera you'd have to divide that number again by your crop factor (usually 1.6 for Canon and 1.5 for Nikon).

about us

Time Lapse Network is the Worldwide community dedicated to time-lapse photography.

Learn the technique, share your experiences and master it watching the best videos for free!

© 2013-18 Time Lapse Network - Created by Marco Famà

submit your video

Follow every single step in this tutorial and get your video straight to the home-page